Planning a Football Trip to Sao Paulo? Where to stay, how to get to the different stadiums and get tickets for the game.
São Paulo is the largest city in Brazil, the largest city proper in the southern hemisphere, in the Americas, and the world’s seventh largest city by population. It is home to some of the biggest football teams in Brazil such as Corinthians, Sao Paulo FC and Palmeiras. It is also home of the Brazilian National Football Museum.
Football Trip to Sao Paulo – How to get there and How to get about.
Multiple airlines fly to Sao Paulo every day and you are able to fly direct from London or you may also find a cheap flight via Paris or Amsterdam.
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Directions from the Airport
Taxis from the Airport
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From Guarulhos International Airport
Distance to the city center of São Paulo: 25 km,
Airport Bus – EMTU / SP implemented a service line executive and suburban to meet the user of the airport. Buses depart from Guarulhos International Airport, bound for the Congonhas Airport, Republic Square, Bus Terminal Tietê and Barra Funda, Itaim Bibi, Paulista / Augusta Hotels Circuit and Tatuapé Metro Station. Walk out of the terminal 2, turn right, and walk past the shuttle buses to the ticket office labelled Airport Bus Service. Buy for a ticket to Republica (R$35, cash or credit card). Buses depart every 30-45 minutes and the departure time is on your ticket. The ride takes about 1 hour.
Pássaro Marron/EMTU, a syndicate of the Internorte Consortium, offers two regular bus lines, 257 and 299, connecting Tatuapé subway station (Linha Vermelha) with Guarulhos Airport every 30 minutes. It is usually worth your while to wait for the faster 257. At Tatuapé, both buses can be picked up on the street level: turn left (toward Terminal Norte) after passing through the Metrô turnstile, continue along the overpass, and then head down the first stairway on the left. At the airport, the stop for both buses is on the median of the Arrivals-level road connecting Terminals 1 and 2. As of December 1, 2011, one-way fare on either bus costs R$4.05 and can be paid to the driver in cash upon boarding. Ticket counters for this service can be found at the Arrivals areas of both Terminals 1 and 2.
Taxi – Apart from taxis, the cabbies Guarucoop cooperative, has granted Infraero to operate the tracks exclusively for taxi from the airport of Guarulhos. The price of a taxi should be around R130
The airport is located 8 km (5 mi) from downtown São Paulo, at Washington Luís Avenue, in the district of Campo Belo.
Azul Brazilian Airlines offers for its passengers free bus transfers between Congonhas and Campinas-Viracopos International Airport at regular times.
Gol Airlines and TAM Airlines offer for their passengers free bus transfers between Congonhas and Guarulhos/Gov. André Franco Montoro Airport airports at regular times.
Further bus transportation is also available through the Airport Bus Service, an executive bus line, administered by EMTU and operated by Consórcio Internorte – Área 3. This service provides transportation between Guarulhos and Congonhas airports, via Tietê Bus Terminal, Palmeiras-Barra Funda Intermodal Terminal, Itaim Bibi, Praça da República,Tatuapé Metro Station and the circuit of hotels along Avenida Paulista and Rua Augusta. The ride takes about one hour, depending on traffic
Congonhas is connected to the São Judas subway station via bus 675I-10 (about $1.50 one way, journey time is roughly 20 minutes).
Taxis between Guarulhos and central São Paulo cost about $70 to $80 one way, regardless of traffic (journey time is somewhere between 45 minutes to 2 hours). It may be best to get a Taxi to Sao Judad station and get the metro into the centre of the city. This should cost around 20Reals
Frommers has an excellent description of how to get around Sao Paulo
On Foot — Though São Paulo itself is huge, many of the neighborhoods that make up the city are compact enough to be easily explored on foot. This is especially true of the more pleasant neighborhoods such as Centro, Higienópolis, Jardins, Vila Madalena, and Ibirapuera. During the day the city is quite safe; in the evening the safest neighborhoods are Jardins, Higienópolis, and the residential areas of the city. Best avoided are the quiet side streets of Centro, particularly the empty shopping streets around Praça Sé, Bexiga, and around Luz station.
By Metrô — The Metrô is the easiest way to get around São Paulo. There are four lines: the North-South line, East-West line, and the line that travels underneath the Avenida Paulista. The fourth line sits isolated in the southwest of the city, and does not connect to the other three. The two main lines converge at Sé station, the busiest station of all. These two lines run daily from 5am until midnight. The line under Avenida Paulista meets the North-South line at Paraiso and Ana Rosa stations and runs daily from 6am to 10pm. It is usually a lot quicker to take the Metrô as close as possible to your destination — even if it means a bit more of a walk or a short taxi ride — than taking the bus all the way.
By Taxi — Taxis are a great way to get around São Paulo, and an absolute must late at night. You can hail one anywhere on the street, and taxi stands are usually found on main intersections, next to malls, squares, and parks. To order a taxi at a specific time, call a radio taxi. Rádio Táxi Vermelho e Branco (“Red and White”) can be reached at tel. 011/3146-4000(www.radiotaxivermelhoebranco.com.br). Cost depends on traffic, so the following prices are only guidelines: From Centro to Avenida Paulista, R$20; from Avenida Paulista to Vila Olímpia, R$25 to R$35; from Avenida Paulista to Higienópolis, R$20.
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – Getting to the Stadiums
Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras – ALLIANZ PARK
Allianz Park is just 4 km from Paulista Avenue and 5 km from the center of Sao Paulo. From Avenue Paulista take METRO L2 Subway towards Vila Madalena, (8 mins, 3 stops). Then get off at S. N. Sra. De Fátima-sumaré. You will need to walk 5 minutes to Av. Paulo Vi and then get the 209P-10 Bus towards Cachoeirinha – (10 mins, 7 stops). From here walk to Walk to Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras which will take around 15 minutes or take a taxi.
Nacional Atlético Clube – Estádio Nicolau Alayon
Estádio Nicolau Alayon, is in a similar direction from the centre as Allianz Park but a little further out – From Avenue Paulista take METRO L2 Subway towards Vila Madalena, (8 mins, 3 stops). Then get off at S. N. Sra. De Fátima-sumaré. You will need to walk 5 minutes to Av. Paulo Vi and then get the 209P-10 Bus – (29 mins, 20 stops) – get off at Av. Mq. De São Vicente, 2724 and it’s a 15 minute walk to the stadium – Walk to Estádio Nicolau Alayon – Nacional Atlético Clube
Corinthians – Arena Corinthians
Avenue Paulista to arena Corinthians – METRO L2 – Subway towards Vila Prudente, (5 mins, 2 stops) at Paraiso change to Metro L1 Subway towards Tucuruvi, (7 mins, 4 stops) get of at Se and then walk to the METRO L3 – Subway towards Corinthians – Itaquera – (16 mins, 5 stops) and get off at Sport Club Corinthians Paulista. The stadium is visible from the metro station.
Clube Atlético Juventus – Conde Rodolfo Crespi (aka Rua Javari)
Juve (Mocca) on same Metro L3 route as Arena Corinthians, you then need to get off at the Mocca stop and walk around 15 minutes to the ground. It is a safe neighbourhood.
Portuguesa – Estadio Canide
METRO L2 – Subway towards Vila Prudente, (5 mins, 2 stops) at Paraiso change to Metro L1 Subway towards Tucuruvi – (15 mins, 8 stops) – Get off at Armenia. It may be best to get a taxi then to the stadium as is a couple of km walk.
Sao Paulo FC – Estádio Cícero Pompeu de Toledo, Morumbi.
Morumbi – From Avenue Paulista take METRO L2 Subway towards Vila Madalena, (5 mins, 2 stops) to Clinicas, Walk to Hospital Das Clinicas, About 5 mins (15 mins to make transfer) at Hospital Das Clinicas – 775F-10 Bus towards Hosp. Das Clinicas, (48 mins, 26 stops), Penultimate stop: Av. Jules Rimet, 189 get off at Av. Giovanni Gronchi, 922 and you are about 100m from the stadium
I tried to get a train from Morumbi stadium and this was nowhere near the stadium. It was another 40 Reals in a taxi from the ground and it was an hour wait getting a taxi after the game.
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – The Stadium
Allianz Parque, located in São Paulo, Brazil, will be the home football stadium of Sociedade Esportiva Palmeiras. It was also known as Parque Antárctica after Companhia Antarctica de Bebidas, a beverages company from which Palmeiras acquired the property in 1920. The Arena is due to open in November 2013, being constructed where the old Estádio Palestra Itália was located, Palmeiras’s former stadium from 1914 to 2010.
Estádio Nicolau Alayon, also known as Estádio Comendador Sousa, is a football (soccer) stadium located in the Brazilian city of São Paulo, São Paulo state. It is the home stadium of Brazilian football club Nacional Atlético Clube, also known as Nacional (SP), and Audax São Paulo Esporte Clube. It has a maximum capacity of 9,660. The stadium is named after the Uruguayan Nicolau Alayon, who was Nacional’s president during the stadium’s construction. The stadium is nicknamed Comendador Sousa after the street where it is located in.
Juventus are a charming little club that play their home games at the cosy Estadio Conde Rodolfo Crespi in the Mooca district of the city. The stadium has a maximum capacity of 4,000 people, and was built in 1929. Estádio Rua Javari is named after Count Rodolfo Crespi, who was Juventus’ first president and helped the stadium construction. The stadium’s nickname, Rua Javari, is the name of the street where it is located in. Pelé states that his most beautiful goal was scored at Rua Javari stadium on a Campeonato Paulista match against São Paulo rivals Juventus on August 2, 1959. As there is no video footage of this match, Pelé asked that a computer animation be made of this specific goal. As it has no artificial lightning, matches are not played after dusk. Clube Atlético Juventus usually schedules its home games to start at 3:00PM (4:00PM when DST).
Estadio Canide – The stadium was built after Portuguesa bought in 1956, from São Paulo Futebol Clube, a groundplot located in Canindé neighborhood. At that time, the groundplot had only a training field, a restaurant with a great hall, dressing-rooms and other minor installations. To be able to host games, following the requirements of Federação Paulista de Futebol, were built an area surrounded with a wire fence, an official football field and provisional wood bleachers, which gave the stadium the nickname “Ilha da Madeira” (Island of the Wood).
Corinthians Arena – Hosting six fixtures at the 2014 World Cup, including the second semi-final and the competition’s curtain-raiser on 12 June, the Arena de Sao Paulo will undoubtedly be one of the most prominent locations of the summer. The stadium itself is completely brand new and purpose-built for the tournament, with a capacity of around 65,000. That figure will be reduced by 20,000 after the competition ends, when Sport Club Corinthians Paulista – one of the Sao Paulo’s most popular sides – will take up residence there. Five-time champions of Brazil’s top league and double FIFA Club World Cup winners, the team are moving some 25km across town from their current Pacaembu Stadium home.
Estádio Cícero Pompeu de Toledo, Morumbi – Largest private stadium in Brazil, Cicero Pompeu de Toledo Stadium, the Morumbi, is home to the São Paulo FC and hosts many major sporting and entertainment events on the continent. In addition to celebrating the many tricolors glories, the São Paulo Morumbi has hosted great moments, like the Brazilian national team games, the visit of Pope John Paul II and concerts by major artists such as Paul McCartney, U2, Queen, Madonna and Michael Jackson, among many others . At is highest point, it could hold a total of 140,000 spectators. Few changes were made to the stadium in the next decades until it underwent an upgrade in the late 1990s. This also reduced the capacity of the stadium to its current total. While the official capacity of Morumbi is 72,809, often not more than 62,000 tickets are available for sale.
Estádio Municipal Paulo Machado de Carvalho, (Estádio do Pacaembu) – The stadium is owned by the Municipal Prefecture of São Paulo. The stadium was inaugurated on April 27, 1940 and holds 37,952 people. It was the home stadium of Corinthians until their move to the Corinthians arena
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – Tickets
Getting tickets for a Brazilian football league game should be easy to do at the Stadium on the day. The games are often less than half fun and almost never sell out. I was able to buy tickets for all the 6 games I went to on the day of the game outside the stadium. I tried to buy tickets over the internet in advance but this was difficult without a Brazilian identity card.
There were lots of touts outside all of the games but not needed as you could buy from the ticket office. Bring some identification as a lot of places demand this across all of Brazil.
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – Where to stay.
Centro and Luz
The old heart of São Paulo, Centro, is a glorious contrast of colonial buildings and immense financial headquarters. Welcoming green squares of giant palm trees dot the urban landscape at Praça da República and Vale doAnhangabaú. Worshippers pack inside Praça da Sé’s enormous Municipal Cathedral – a triumph of monumental Gothic architecture, while culture vultures enjoy orchestral symphonies in the classical Teatro Municipal. Leading north, past the musical stores of Rua Santa Ifigenia, is the resurgent cultural hub of Luz where neoclassical museums contain art treasures.
Consolação and Pinheiros
The lively Consolação district encircles the western edge of Centro in the shadow of Avenida Ipiranga’s towering high-rise Edifício Itália. Fashionable media types gather in the area’s art-house cinemas, contemporary art schools and hip boutiques. Graffiti-strewn Rua Augusta attracts bohemian trendsetters to its informal bars and unpretentious eateries. West of here, the easygoing Pinheiros neighbourhood represents a throwback to old Brazil – uniformed waiters serve budding writers in turn-of-the-century botequim cafés while Saturday markets on Praça Benedito Calixto attract antique furniture hunters and old-vinyl junkies.
Just south of Consolação and flanked to the east by Avenida Paulista, the extensive district of Jardins is a shoppers’ paradise of elegant bakeries, high-end design stores and cutting-edge fashion labels. Perfect for glamorous people – watching and relaxed afternoon strolls, leafy streets like Rua Oscar Freire are lined with vibrant flagship boutiques and flash restaurants. Architectural landmark São Paulo hotels like the retro-chic Fasano and the golden glassEmiliano add to the area’s allure.
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – What else to see & do.
Museum of Football Brazil – http://museudofutebol.org.br/ – It was created to tell the history of Brazilian football. It is an excellent way to spend a few hours with really great interactive exhibits and a chance to see the inside of the stadium but not the dressing rooms unfortunately.
Here is a walking tour of the Central Area
Estacao da Luz (Praça da Luz 1) – Built at the end of the 19th century for the headquarters of the British-owned São Paulo Railway, Estação da Luz (Station of Light) is the oldest of its kind in the city. The SPR owned an important line that connected Santos Harbour to Jundiaí; Estação da Luz was the only stop in São Paulo and so played a key role in Brazil’s development. It was through it that all the coffee—the state’s main economic activity—passed to reach the sea for export. The current building was erected between 1895 and 1901: its design by the British engineer Henry Driver reflected the important role played by the Estação da Luz on the urban, national and even the world stage. The clock tower set the time for everyone in town.
Wander the busy pedestrian streets of the old downtown neighborhood of Centro. In the constant commercial chatter you’ll feel, see, and hear Paulistas at their best: buying, selling, and trading. Drop down the busy Rua 25 de Março to the Mercado Municipal, to sample the exotic fruit or bite into a monster mortadella and Swiss. The Mercado, is famous for its “Pasteis de Bacalhau” (fried pastry pockets stuffed with cod), it’s “Mortadela Sanduiches” (baloney sandwiches which are served hot) and the Pasteis de Camarao (hot shrimp pastry pockets). To order one of these, you must first get a ticket from the cashier in the snack bar of your choice, then you can approach the counter and your order will be filled. If you want a table, you may have to wait. Try Bar do Mane, located within the Mercado Municipal, for their famous mortadella sandwich.
Ascend to the top of the Banespa building for a 360-degree view of the city. (Head south on BR-050 toward Rua Comendador Assad Abdalla, Slight right onto Parque Dom Pedro II, this road turns into Rua General Carniro, Turn left onto Rua Quinze de Novembro, Turn right onto Praça da Sé, Turn right onto Rua Santa Teresa) An enduring symbol of São Paulo’s 20th century race to modernity, the Edifício Altino Arantes—more commonly known as the Banespa Tower or Banespão—remains one of the most notable landmarks on the city’s exhaustive skyline. Despite being the third-tallest building in the city, the Banespa is situated on the highest point in downtown São Paulo, giving it the appearance of being even taller than the Mirante do Vale, today the tallest building in Brazil at 558 feet. Panoramic, 360-degree views of the city from the 35th-floor observation deck extend to over 25 miles, encompassing all of downtown and even the verdant Serra da Cantareira mountain range to the city’s north. The observation deck and the first-floor building museum is free to visitors and open Monday through Friday, except holidays, from 10am to 5pm.
Have a coffee at the Pátio do Colégio.
Catedral da Sé is a well known shape on the city’s skyline, but lesser known is the cathedral’s underground crypt – the Cripta da Sé. Decorated with a series of bronze sculptures, this is the final resting place of many of the city’s bishops and historical figures, such as thecacique – ‘Indian chief’ – Tibiriçá, the first São Paulo native to convert to Catholicism, and Diogo Feijó, a bishop who governed Brazil for a brief period in 1835. Locals might be hesitant to advise tourists to visit the crypt, but guide Vera Tibiriçá notes, ‘Our usual visitors are not from here. People from the city usually aren’t very interested in the city’s history or don’t even know this place exists.’ The grass is always greener, we guess. Open 10-11.30am, 1-5.30pm Mon, Wed-Fri; 1-4.30pm Sat; 8am-1pm, 2-6pm Sun. Free.
Museu Padre Anchieta – Walking across busy Praça da Sé towards Rua Santa Teresa, the noise fades to the quiet calm of Pátio do Colégio. This site marks the birthplace of São Paulo. Its first building, a school – the Colégio de São Paulo de Piratininga – was established as a base for Portuguese efforts to convert the native people to Catholicism. The old school building has been remodelled many times over the centuries, and now houses a museum in honour of one of its founders, Padre Anchieta. Open 9am-4.45pm Tue-Fri; 9am-4.40pm Sat, Sun. Admission R$5
Next door to the Solar da Marquesa de Santos lies the Casa da Imagem, another recently-renovated history building (it reopened in November 2011), which boasts an immense photographic archive of historical São Paulo – 710,000 photographs to be precise, plus a digital database of 120,000 images. Open 9am-5pm. Free.
Teatro Municipal. The building’s gorgeous baroque interior—including a chandelier made of 7,000 Belgian crystals—was the site of the revolutionary 1922 exhibit “Week of Modern Art,” which helped launch Brazilian modernism, a stylistic blend of the European masters and Brazil’s more primitivist native traditions.
Edifício Itália (Republica) – Mid-20th century design aesthetics may not be able to hold a candle to the modern skyscrapers of today but still, Sao Paulo’s Edifício Itália is tremendous. What makes the 46 story high-rise worthwhile is the rooftop observation deck, with superb views of the city.
Walk down Avenida Iperanga to Bar Brahama (Avenida São João, 677 ) – The Brahma Bar is a traditional premises located in the city center of Sao Paulo , in Brazil . Founded in 1948 by German immigrant Henry Hillebrecht , soon became a meeting point of important personalities of the academic and political means ( Quadros , Ademar de Barros and Fernando Henrique Cardoso ) and the art world ( Adoniram Barbosa , Orlando Silva , Ari Barroso , Vicente Celestino , etc. . )
Carry along road to the Alegoria das Artes (‘Allegory of the Arts’), at Rua Nestor Pestana 125. Completed in 1950 and standing 48 metres tall and 8 metres wide, Di Cavalcanti’s immense mosaic, depicting Zeus’s muses, covers one part of the façade of the Teatro Cultura Artística, still part-clad in scaffolding as the theatre is rebuilt following a devastating fire in 2008. Starting point for a walking tour taking in some of the city’s most important murals, We move on to Rua da Consolação to gaze at another mosaic mural (above), this one 60 years old, on the façade of the former headquarters of the Estado de S.Paulo, portraying the newspaper’s production process back in the day. Back on Rua da Consolação, opposite the Mário de Andrade library, we’re in pole position to see the coloured mural by Japanese-born artist Tomie Ohtake (Rua Coronel Xavier de Toledo 161). Further on, past the small blue blocks painted by Bramonte Buffoni on the façade of the Galeria Nova Barão mall (Rua Barão de Itapetininga 37), we stop at an abstract mosaic by one of Brazil’s best-known artists, Cândido Portinari, in the entrance hall of the Edifício e Galeria Califórnia (Rua Barão de Itapetininga 255).
Here are some of the sights near Avendia Paulista
Start the day up on Avenida Paulista, where you can choose between indoor art action at the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP) or explore the small patch of tropical forest just across the street, Trianon Park. Smack in the middle of town, São Paulo’s vast Ibirapuera Park offers visitors hiking and biking trails to keep body together along with a clutch of artfully-designed museums to take care of the mind. The absorbing Museu Afro Brasil (Avenida Pedro Alvares Cabral ) and the engaging Museum of Modern Art (Portão 3, Parque do Ibirapuera) are two of the park’s must-sees.
Opposite Trianon Park is art space underneath Conjunto Nacional (3). Take a picture of the enormous statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza, painstakingly created out of 2,000 empty Coke cans and 4,000 bottle caps by native artists Silvia Galvão and Sandro Rodrigues. This obvious yet good-natured dig at American capitalism, in the middle of a mall filled with American products, is touched with a subversive Sampa wit.
Football Trip to Sao Paolo – Eating & Drinking
Vento Haragano, Avenida Rebouças 1001, Jardim Paulista, São Paulo – The display of perfectly-charred carcasses laid across an open flame at the entrance to this gaúcho-style set-price barbecue (rodízio), hint at the restaurant’s ‘go big or go home’ approach. It’s pricier than many a churrascaria, but Vento Haragano faithfully delivers, most memorably with its garlic-laced picanha, the unusual wild boar served with jabuticaba jelly, and a ridiculously good grilled mozzarella. The traditional gaúcho outfits worn by the staff smack slightly of Disneyland, and there’s no lack of tourists to complete the picture; but trust us: the meat is so good here, you won’t mind a jot. It’s about 1km from hostel but get taxi at night and back. Prices fixed price R$103
Nearby – Bar Dida (Rua Doutor Melo Alves 98) – Candle-lit by moonlight, this ace little bar on the edge of Jardins doesn’t get going till the hairdressers’ next door winds down, and there’s a very good reason for that: the sought-after tables are set out on the salon’s parking spaces. Huge caipirinhas and a buzzing atmosphere make this simple, friendly spot one of our absolute faves. Wait for a table if you have to, or give up and retire to Bar Balcão,( Rua Dr. Melo Alves 150) close by – it’s also Dida’s hot tip for when rain spoils the fun at her place.
Karavelle (Alameda Lorena 1784) becomes the latest brewpub offering another option in the burgeoning artisanal local beer scene. Opened in 2013 by business partners Dinho Diniz and Otavio Veiga along with singer/actor Seu Jorge, whose image appears kissing a bottle, beaming out at patrons from the many TV screens around the three-storey bar, Karavelle carefully walks the line between being a sexy low-lit nightspot, and a destination for beer enthusiasts.
Wall Street Bar (Rua Jerônimo da Veiga 149) Then head down to Itaim’s Wall Street Bar and join the shirt-sleeved business folk as they loosen their ties and gamble on drinks prices while they rise and fall depending on who’s buying what. It’s black and tiled with a big bull statue outside, but don’t fret – lunch isn’t for wimps at Wall Street: they do serve food.
Near Juventus Stadium in Mocca
The Elidio Bar (Rua Dias Isabel, 57) was founded in 1959 by Elidio Raimondi, a talkative gentleman born and raised in a family of Italian origin which inherited three passions: cooking, trade and football. The Elidio Bar, in the Mooca neighborhood, was the pioneer and great inspiring a whole new generation of pubs that are spread by the São Paulo capital.
The Pizzaria San Pedro is located in the emblematic Javari, 333 Street , in the traditional São Paulo neighborhood of Mooca .
Kia Ora (R. Dr. Eduardo de Souza Aranha 377 ) Rock and pop cover bands perform at this Down Under–themed pub. Seven international draft beers and happy hour specials make Kia Ora popular after businesses close. www.kiaora.com.br – Not too far from Sao Paolo Art Museum
Bar Léo, the supreme icon among São Paulo taverns; in a city which loves chope (a kind of draft beer), this bar is considered the best chope house
Cervejaria Nacional – Address Avenida Pedroso de Morais 604, Pinheiros, São Paulo – No beer in São Paulo travels a shorter distance from barrel to glass than at this microbrewery-cum-bar. Sit at the counter on the first floor overlooking the vast fermentation tanks below, or head up to the top-floor dining area for a cosier spot. If you like beer, go the whole hog with the degustação – a 150ml sampler of all five of the home brews – a weiss beer, a lager, an India pale ale (IPA), a brown ale and a stout (R$19.90). Friendly service and good food make this an excellent choice for a group night out: go for the live jazz on Tuesday nights and blues on Thursdays.
Bar do Bio – Be prepared to wait for a table outside, or head inside to grab a table in a space adorned with football team strips. Don’t miss the famed baião de dois (from R$28) – a north-eastern buttery rice dish studded with jerky. (Rua Cardeal Arcoverde 776, Pinheiros, São Paulo
Finnegan’s Pub (Rua Cristiano Viana 358, Pinheiros, São Paulo) – this is perhaps the most traditional and authentic Irish bar in the city, and a cosy spot to while away a few hours in the company of some well-poured pints. Regular rock bands and a darts board keep punters entertained, or for a more cerebral evening join in the annual ‘Bloomsday’ event on 16 June to commemorate the life of James Joyce by reading sections of his last novel Ulysses.
Piraja – Happy hour. Try the croquete de abóbora recheado de carne–seca (pumpkin with meat) or bolinhos de polenta com rabada also (a small cake served with meat). Their chope (beer) is great. Avenida Brigadeiro Faria Lima, 64, Pinheiros, Phone: 3815-6881.
Cachaçaria Paulista (Rua Mourato Coelho 593) – This graffiti-covered garage filled with underground party creatures is the place to be if you want to smell like teen spirit again: Milo, as the eponymous owner, dares to play every possible form of danceable music—from Nirvana to Radiohead to Sepultura.
São Cristóvão (Rua Aspicuelta 533) – Stop by for a drink and you’ll find yourself confronted by more then 2500 photos of classic moments in Brazilian football history, along with a similarly startling number of flags and rare team shirts from the 1950s to the 1980s. And, of course, you can always watch the match while you chew on your “carne de panela” (a traditional meat stew).
Artilheiros Bar (Rua Mourato Coelho 1194,) Set on a quiet strip of Rua Mourato Coelho, just a skip and a hop from Vila Madalena’s busy bar scene, modest Artilheiros Bar is all about football, from the array of team scarves and vintage football magazines adorning the white-washed brick walls, to its commitment to broadcasting all the Brazilian league, Euro League and Champions League football games.
Queens Head (Rua Tucambira 163, Pinheiros) Punctuating its packed Thursday-through-Sunday schedule of live music, the Queen’s Head broadcasts football matches, though only the finals for major Brazilian leagues when São Paulo teams are playing, and international championship finals. The latter are shown on two large TVs and projected onto a 100-inch screen.
Piexaria Bar e Venda (Rua Inácio Pereira da Rocha 112) – The menu is expansive, covering all the Brazilian fishy favourites – that is, moqueca fish stew (R$48),camarão na moranga(shrimp-stuffed pumpkin, R$24.90) and the like – as well as foreign classics such as paella (R$48). Order some caipirinhas (R$14), which come in glass jars, ready shaken, and sit back and take your time. The food, while good, is far from five star, so this is one for a fun, laid-back lunch rather than a gourmet treat.
Bar do Corno (Rua Belmiro Braga 220, Vila Madalena) – This small, unremarkable corner boteco is dominated by the truly remarkable looming figure of one man. His name is Nelson, and you’ll find him sporting a yellow-horned Viking helmet behind the bar, every single day
Bierboxx ( Rua Fradique Coutinho 842) – Aimed at beer lovers, this bar and beer emporium feels more emporium than bar, lacking atmosphere and with a barely-visible-barman tucked away in a corner. There’s certainly nothing lacking when it comes to choice, however, with more than 200 types of beer on sale, though only four of them on tap: Guinness, and three other brands on rotation. Bunches of students go some way to livening up the space, set in an old Vila Madalena house, with the cosiest spots to be found in the front and back gardens. Keep your eyes peeled for a bottle of Sink the Bismarck – possibly the world’s strongest and one of the most expensive beers, at 41% proof, and an eyewatering R$600. Luckily, it’s tucked away on the highest shelf in the shop – out of reach of most hands, as well as pockets.
Melograno (Rua Aspicuelta 436) Melograno is a discreetly stylish little bar; and the food’s not bad, either, covering Brazilian bar snacks, paninis and comforting classics like fish and chips, served wedged into a pint glass. The beer menu was relaunched in 2012 with a smaller but still impressive selection of 130 brews, some of which are grouped into set-price tasting menus.
Botequim do Cesinha (Rua Delfina 66) Two fridges, filling almost a third of the space, are stocked with 80 Brazilian and foreign beers. Team up a Newcastle Brown Ale, Colorado Ale, Spitfire or Bishops Finger, with a meticulously preparedtábua de frios (cheeses and cold meats, from R$21) or the roast beef sandwich (R$10). Cachaça lovers will be delighted too with the reasonably-priced selection, including Claudionor, from Minas Gerais. And if you’re unlucky enough to find it closed – note it shuts early – appreciate instead the amorous graffiti covering the door, sprayed by the daddy of São Paulo street art, Rui Amaral.
Mercearia Sao Pedro (Rua Rodésia 34) Straightforward and buzzing, this boteco is something of a city institution, doubling up as a bookshop and video rental joint, with shelves stacked with old VHS tapes, dust-covered books and erotic manga comics. Head here for the cheap buffet lunch, though in the evenings expect slow service and to wait at least an hour for a table.
The Orleans (Rua Girassol 396) Vila Madalena’s brand new live music joint takes its inspiration from New Orleans and the style is seated restaurant with VIP gallery above. The sound quality is excellent.
Genial (Rua Girassol 374) The tiled floors, the old-fashioned charm and the good-natured bustle of this classic Vila Madalena choperia make it a good place to watch a football game on a Sunday afternoon, or to tuck into a plate of pasta late on a Tuesday night. It also has a pleasant patio out front and a games room with a pool table.
Filial – Casual chic, bohemian style. A great bar to end the night. Filial’s Caipirinha de frutas vermelhas (red fruits) is delicious. Rua Fidalga, 254, Vila Madalena, Phone: 3813–9226. 5PM/2:30AM (Friday until 3:30M; Saturday 12AM/3:30AM; Sunday 4PM/1AM).
Football trip to Sao Paolo – Useful links
Football trip to Sao Paolo – Safety
São Paulo is not for the faint of heart in terms of security issues. The vast majority of the bad guys want your money or your stuff (as a way to get money) for drugs. They do not want YOU as a person. They do not want your kids. They don’t want to hurt you. They want money. They are targeting you because you are distracted looking on your ipad, chatting on your cell phone, driving with your purse on the front seat, or leaving a bank, where there is some kind of probability that you are withdrawing large sums of money. Common crimes include: Being robbed by a motoboy who can make a quick getaway. Lockdown at a restaurant where the entrance will be blocked by armed men while the other criminals collect the belonging of patrons.
Key rules for staying safe:
Rule #1: Avoid drawing large sums of money from an ATM or teller.
Rule #2: Avoid eating out late at night, especially on a side street or more remote location.
Rule #3: Avoid wearing any item of a recognizable luxury brand or jewellery, watches, etc.
Rule #4: Don’t look lost.
Rule #5: Don’t attract attention by speaking English or other foreign language loudly.
Rule #6: Don’t carry expensive electronics
Rule #7: If you think someone looks suspicious, they probably ARE suspicious.
Rule #8: Beware of the “distract and rob” strategy.
Rule #9: If you are robbed – Move slowly and cooperate with his/her requests. If facing the criminal, raise your hands open-faced in front of you at waist level to show you have nothing in your hands. Do not raise hands above head as this attracts attention and the criminal does not want attention. If you speak no or little Portuguese, say immediately “não falo portugues” (sounds like “no follow por-too-Gaze”). This will alert the criminal that you might not be following instructions because you do not understand, not because you are resisting. If they are asking for a wallet, or cell phone, point slowly to the pocket where it is and tell them you are going to get it slowly. Tell them what you are doing before doing it. Say “Te dou tudo” (“Chee dough too-doo” I am giving you everything). Try and stay calm. I was counseled by a military police to always carry at least R$200 (about US$100) on me, in cash, all the time. It is an amount of money that will satisfy the small time criminal that wants an easy hit. If you only have R$2 in your wallet, they might get mad. Do not make them mad. Do not look the criminal in the eye. They do not want to be identified. If there is a tattoo on an arm or hand, or distinctive clothing, do try to remember that. The police have an impressive file of identifying tattoos for criminals in this city. Do not take a risk in trying to memorize stuff. It may be helpful in the police report but is not worth risking your life.
Using your local taxi stand is our best advice for taking taxis. You can even call them from your house or apartment and they will pick you up at your door. You can also often set a time for a trip to the airport, or to get kids to school. The main reason for our recommendation is safety. You will get to know these drivers and they will get to know you. Many will give you their personal cards with their own cell phone numbers. Flagging a taxi off the street can be hazardous. More than 20% of taxis in Sao Paulo are non-registered. As in not legal. You won’t necessarily be able to tell: the cars are white with taxi symbols on them. Not all of the non-registered ones are bad guys. But how would you know?